Which tells me its not the new plug receptacle or any part of the wire from it. Tested the wires and I'm getting solid power from the Brown Wire (R Turn/Stop) when it should be flashing when the Right Blinker in turned on like the Red Wire (L Turn/Stop) is when the Left Blinker is turned on.Īlso tested back at the connector and I'm getting solid power from the R Turn/Stop wire. I'm using a 7pin to 4 pin converter, that works good on my dad's factory F-150. But my R Turn/Stop on my trailer is always on. I bashed mine on a rock within 6 months of getting my truck and it's been zip-tied to the bumper ever since.Įverything works good. I replaced the trailer plug receptacle on my 2007 SR5 4x4 DCLB with the factory Honda one, which is an identical part, but with a different connector on the harness end. TLDR:wasn't the starter, just a loose electrical connection.Need help from any wiring gurus out there! Another shitty thing about the starter location, is that you cant run a jumper straight from the battery terminal to the positive terminal on the starter, which handicaps the troubleshooting process. The weak connection just didn't allow the power to flow at the amp level necessary to start the truck. (Haven't looked on the actual truck) BigWhiteTRD, Jun 15, 2018. Looks like 40 Amp fuse on the trailer battery connection to me, per the schematic. I couldn't find that documented anywhere. Also, the cable powering thru the starter relay, powers everything else on that relay box, and everything else was still working. Trying to find out how much current can be pulled by a trailer connected via the 7 pin connector on a '17 with the towing package. Fully charged battery and connected to a jump box, and the relay was kickin. 130-Amp Alternator, 4- & 7-pin Connector w/Converter, and Trailer Sway Control. Wrenched it down and truck fired right up.ĭid the starter even fail? Probably not. Photo (3.) This shows the contents of the trailer plug after it has been disassembled and the order that it comes apart. Still connected, a tight finger-tight, making good contact, but not completely pressed solid. I found that a ring terminal bolt that screws into the battery clamp connector had become ever so slightly loosened. Jumping the relay now only gave a click as well. And it did that without the full charge it now had. The fact that I tested it by jumping the relay and it turned the motor over, ruled out anything else BUT a weak electrical connection. Go out to start the truck, and get one loud click. I know my battery charge had gotten a bit low so before I started the truck for the first time, I put a charger on it for a couple hours. Slapped on the intake, throttle body, and finished making all connections. Made minimal connections necessary, including the battery itself, and jumped the starter relay to confirm the starter would turn over the motor. Replaced the contacts, put the starter back together, and back into the truck. The contacts were definitely worn, but not gone. When something fails, I want to find broken parts, so there's no doubt. Upon opening the starter, it didn't appear to be worn to the point of failure. Then bought a repair kit with the contacts, which are surprisingly universal for many makes and models. Its easy to do and has the standard 4-pin plug to connect it up. This is not a thread on how to remove the starter so I won't go thru the process, but I did that next. In a previous video, I install a brake/turn/reverse LED strip below my tailgate. However tapping the starter housing did nothing for me. Just wanted to give an update/followup post, as it drives me nuts when people leave threads like this without end you were correct about being able to put eyes on the starter.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |